MEMBER ARTICLE: How to make a latex top in 10 easy steps.
from
Recon News
07 November 2018
By Team Recon member Skully
There are lots of different techniques to making latex, it was (and continues to be) trial and error and is a labour of love. If making latex clothing is something you do want to give a go – try not to get disheartened if it's not perfect straight away.
Here's a quick 10 step guide to getting started and making a basic latex vest.
Things you will need:
• Craft board
• Roller cutter
• Latex sheeting (I generally use 0.40mm or 0.55mm thickness)
• Old plastic card you can cut and use as a spreader
• White spirit or heptane
• Latex milk
• All purpose cleaning cloth
• Gel pen
1.
The first thing you'll need to do is make sure that your area and work space is clean, you don't want to have any dust or anything that's going to compromise the garment when you put it together, it's best to use a craft board as a surface.
2.
When making a latex garment you essentially glue the garment pattern together. You can find patterns online for a basic vest or you can make your own. If you measure yourself, it's advisable to trim off 1-3 inches so the latex fits to your body better. You can trace around a vest you already own on paper, cut these out and use the front and back of the top as the outline for the latex.
Once you have outlined the pattern in latex (it's best to use gel pens in a light colour such as yellow or gold), cut out the pattern carefully using a roll cutter on your craft board.
3.
You will be gluing down both sides of the vest and at the shoulder, these edges will overlap by about 1cm. To prepare the edges you will glue together or 'seam' of the latex, use a thinner such as white spirit or heptane. The thinner removes any powder left over by a manufacture and pen marks you have made. It is best to decanter this into a small jar – remember to place the lid back on the jar to avoid losing the liquid though evaporation or if you're like me and clumsy, unnecessary spillage.
4.
Use a clean single piece of cloth with the thinner, I find its best to cut the cloth in to smaller squares. When cleaning the latex – try not to go over the same area too many times with the thinner as it can weaken the latex. Try to clean the seam in one go with the cloth around your index finger, making sure that there is no residue or dust on the latex. This should dry quickly, usually within 5 minutes.
You don't need to use too much thinner to clean the latex, if you use a little too much you may find the latex will start to fold up, this will settle down again while it dries. You will only need to clean about an inch around the seam of the latex (the section you will glue).
5.
The glue you can use will depend, I use latex milk – again its best to decant this into a smaller jar for ease, use a spreader to smooth the glue across the seam. Cutting down an old plastic card from your wallet works well, ideally to about 1.5cm thickness.
6.
Arrange your work area and pieces so it's clear what you must do and in which order – this may seem obvious, but I've previously got half way through a seam of top before and realised it was upside down. Also make sure you have good light and don't be too impatient to start sticking the garment together.
7.
The trick is to get just the right amount of glue on to the spreader, you don't want to use too much otherwise the glue spreads across the intended area of the latex and will be untidy, too little and you won't get enough coverage on the garment with will make your seam weak.
You will want to be fairly quick spreading the glue as it does start to go tacky and you'll struggle to spread it evenly across the seam. Use a steady hand to better apply the glue neatly, as glue on your workspace area will mean constant cleaning. Use the plastic card spreader to evenly distribute the glue, cleansing it regularly of any excess glue. You should have no gaps in the application of the glue and it should go all the way to the edge of the latex seam.
8.
As you glue, your seam should be a consistent overlap that is 1cm wide, because the glue spreader you used was 1.5cm, you'll ideally have a .5cm overlap – use the glued area as a guide.
When marring up the seams you don't need to apply too much pressure at this stage. Take your time, prevent air bubbles by ensuring you smooth the area carefully and always work along the seam – don't try and start in the middle.
It's easy to inadvertently stretch the latex, if you do this you could be centimetres out by the time you have reached the end of the seam.
9.
The glue with stick together very quick so if you do need to reline it because you have gone wrong just wind back, adopt a new position and do it again. If you're not repeatedly touching the glue or getting dust or powder on the glue seam you can adjust this a few times, however it is best to try and get this right fist time.
10.
Once the seam is complete use a small craft roller to apply some pressure and roll down the seam. The seam should have a consistent overlap, with no air bubbles, lumps from glue balls and no dimples. After rolling the seam the latex vulcanises (bonds together), and the seam should be at full strength. If there is a minimal amount of excess glue, this can be removed with the thinner (again only use a tiny amount on a clean cloth). I found putting my seam up to the light and testing the strength by stretching the latex is a good indication you have done a good job.
